How to feed cherries in the fall for a good harvest

Richly fruiting cherries deplete the earth. Microelements necessary for active vegetation and a good harvest are washed away by rain and melt water. Lack of nutrients leads to slow growth. The tree can freeze in winter and get sick. The berry becomes smaller and rarer. The fertile soil layer recovers slowly on its own. Plants can be helped by applying mineral or organic fertilizers in the fall.

Autumn care measures guarantee a good harvest

Caring for cherries in the fall plays an important role.

1. Helps the tree recover faster after heavy fruiting.
2. Increases next year's yield due to an increase in the number of flower buds.
3. Improves berry quality, juiciness and size.
4. Strengthens the tree's resistance to various diseases.
5. Prevents trunk rot.
6. Protects against attacks by rodents and insects.
7. Increases the frost resistance of the tree.

How to feed cherries in the fall so that they bear fruit well

Like most fruit trees, the formation of flower buds in cherries occurs in the year preceding flowering and fruiting. Thus, the foundations for the next year’s harvest are laid the day before, that is, in the current calendar year. To stimulate the tree to lay more flower buds, it is necessary to fertilize regularly, including in the fall.

If organic fertilizers were used during the summer, then they should not be used in the fall; in this case, preference should be given to mineral complexes. If organic matter was not used, then now it is quite possible to add it. To fertilize in the fall for a good cherry harvest, old rotted manure is used, evenly incorporating it into the soil around the tree trunk. This is usually done when digging up the root zone; this procedure is necessary to ensure that in winter, as many pests as possible wintering in the ground under the tree are killed.

Important! Fresh manure or chicken droppings are not used in the fall due to the high nitrogen content.

Phosphate flour - long-term fertilizer

In addition to organic matter, the use of phosphate rock as a fertilizer has a good effect. This is a fertilizer of prolonged (long-term) action; it decomposes gradually in the soil, enriching the upper fertile layer with phosphorus. Fertilizer is applied once every 3-4 years, in dry form.

A video on how to increase cherry fruiting can be viewed at the link:

Loosening the tree trunk soil

In autumn, fertilizing is carried out using the root method. There is no point in using the foliar option during this period. Because the leaves have already turned yellow and fallen off.

Mineral fertilizers are scattered along the border of the tree trunk circle, immediately digging up the ground. For better absorption, all substances should be dissolved in water. Thus, the soil is quickly saturated with useful elements. The fertilizer is absorbed by the entire network of the root part of the tree.

The diameter of the tree trunk circle also matters; it depends on the size of the crown. As the tree grows, the circle gradually increases in size. To make the calculation correctly, you should measure the span of the crown. Multiply the result by 1.5. This will be the necessary circle that fully provides the plant with nutrition.

During the digging process, you must act carefully so as not to damage large roots, which take a long time to recover. It is not advisable to insert a shovel deep into the ground in the immediate vicinity of the trunk. The depth should not be more than 7-8 cm. It is recommended to use a fork only when working with loose soil.

Important! The roots of the cherry tree are located in the ground a little deeper than 15 cm. It is important, when digging, not to lower the sharp blade of the shovel below this limit.

How can you fertilize cherry trees?

This stone fruit culture is supplemented not only with organic matter, but also with various mineral preparations.

The most effective fertilizers for cherries will be:

• urea;
• superphosphate;
• any potassium salt (except those containing chlorine);
• ammonium nitrate;
• rotted compost;
• green manure;
• wood ash;
• lime;
• dolomite flour.

How to feed cherries during flowering? - video

Important!

In the first couple of seasons after planting cherry seedlings in a permanent place, feeding them is not required - if all the necessary fertilizers were added to the planting holes during planting.

Cherry trees can be fertilized either strictly “at the root” or treated with useful substances “on the leaf”.

Before applying fertilizers, be sure to water the tree trunks of the cherries - up to 30 liters of water are poured under young trees, and up to 60 liters under mature trees. And only after the moisture has been absorbed can fertilizer be applied.

Dry fertilizer is scattered over the entire area of ​​the cherry tree trunk circle and incorporated into the soil with a rake. And with liquid fertilizers you simply water the root zone.

How to water cherries in autumn

For autumn water-recharging irrigation, a large amount of water is used. Moisture should penetrate to the deepest roots.

Final watering is carried out after digging up the soil around the trunk and fertilizing. An adult tree needs at least 15 liters of water. This allows you to moisten the soil to a depth of half a meter. Young plants need 8 liters of clean water. It is very useful to water the cherries with rainwater collected in advance. Many gardeners store rainwater in an open cistern, an old tank dug into the ground. A barrel above an outdoor shower is also an excellent reservoir.

The water temperature for irrigation should be slightly higher than the air temperature at the time of watering. The border of the near-trunk circle is deepened, in the form of a trench, so that the water does not spill. Watering can be done by laying a hose with holes in the trench. Half an hour, an hour of low pressure, will allow the moisture to reach the very roots. This is extremely useful because wet soil does not freeze as quickly. The plant will survive the winter better.

Types of autumn fertilizing for cherries

For cherries, standard types and feeding schemes are used. They differ in the application technique and the means used:

1. Root. The mixture is applied strictly at the root, combined with watering. This type includes mineral fertilizers and any organic matter (humus, bird droppings, compost).
2. Foliar feeding or spraying. Usually carried out during flowering and after the flowers fall. In the fall, this type of fertilizing is recommended to compensate for iron deficiency. Use iron sulfate (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). The procedure is carried out after the first frost.

Top dressing

In the autumn days, gardeners apply fertilizers in such volumes that there is enough food for the whole winter.

Agronomists advise using:

• rotted manure (24-36 months), rotted leaves, chicken droppings (1.5 kg), diluted in 4 liters of water;
• mineral fertilizers with phosphorus and potassium are advised to be buried deep into the roots to ensure good access;
• ready-made, complex collections recommended by scientists for berry gardens.

Important! It is not recommended to use nitrogen additives in the autumn. So as not to prevent the tree from sleeping for the winter. The growth process may begin.

The rate of fertilizing is selected according to the age of the plant.

Trees under 4 years old are given small portions:

• phosphorus-potassium fertilizers – up to 100 g;
• organic – up to 15-20 kg.

A cherry tree that has reached 5 years old is prescribed the following doses:

• phosphorus – 400 g;
• potassium – up to 150 g;
• organic fertilizers - up to 40-50 kg per plant.

An excess of fertilizers reduces the fruitfulness of cherries. Therefore, agronomists advise not to exceed the recommended dosage.

Old-school gardeners prefer to use compost for fertilizing:

• young trees up to 7 years old - 2 kg per 1 m² of trunk circle;
• for older trees - 3 kg.

“Advanced” gardeners are keen on mineral fertilizers.

1. The best combination is phosphorus + potassium.
2. For non-fruit-bearing trees - 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate and 1 tbsp. l. potassium chloride.
3. For fruit-bearing fruits - 3 tbsp. l. superphosphate and 1.5 tbsp. l. potassium chloride.

Trees older than 7 years are fertilized every other year. When choosing the amount and time of fertilizing, you should always take into account the climate, soil composition, and plant health.

If in the spring the ovaries and flowers fall off the cherry tree, this indicates high acidity of the soil. To normalize the situation, lime fertilizers are added to the soil every 5 years in the fall. They help maintain the green part of the crown.

Timing for applying autumn fertilizing

Features of the cherry tree are early fruiting, quick end of the growing season, early hibernation. Fertilizing is applied in early autumn. A later procedure will be ineffective, since the nutrients will not have time to be absorbed, and the cherry will already go into a dormant state.

The exact timing depends on the weather conditions of the region. After fruiting is completed, wait 3-4 weeks (time to stop the movement of juices), then apply fertilizer.

The dates vary: from late August for northern regions with short summers to early October for the south. For regions with a temperate climate, the feeding procedure begins in early September and is completed by the 21st-25th.

This is interesting:

How to fertilize cucumbers with mullein.

What types of fertilizers are best to use when planting potatoes.

Feeding calendar by month

Month	Target	Feeding
August	Gradual preparation of the fruit tree for winter begins.	Nitrogen fertilizers are excluded from acceptable fertilizers. In August, azofoska and diammofoska are introduced.
September	Fruiting is completely completed. Active preparation of cherries for cold weather.	Emphasis on potassium-phosphorus mixtures. Use potassium monophosphate, superphosphate and analogues. The mixtures are applied under loosening or into holes.
October November	Prevention and elimination of garden parasites.	After the first frost, the cherries are sprayed with a urea solution - 500-700 g per 10 liters of water.

Disease Prevention

Prevention from pests and various diseases in the fall is useful:

• urea treatment;
• removing leaves and weeds that have fallen under the tree;
• treatment of cuts and scratches of the trunk;
• applying garden varnish to pruning areas;
• pruning excess, dried, diseased and broken branches;
• spraying the tree with insect repellent solutions: copper sulfate, cypermethrin, which has a wide spectrum of action.

During the winter months, cherry trees often become infected with fungal diseases. A fungal spore, falling on a plant trunk in the fall, safely survives the winter and quickly multiplies in the spring.

To prevent diseases and insects, in the fall the trunk is cleaned of lichens, exfoliated bark, and green moss. It is convenient to do this with iron brushes with stiff bristles.

After this procedure, fallen leaves, weeds, insect eggs, larvae, cleaning residues are removed and burned. Treat the entire soil around, as well as the tree itself, with fungicides (from rot and fungus).

If trees are slightly infested with insects, it is recommended to spray the plant with folk remedies.

1. An ash-soap solution prepared from a bucket of water, up to half a kilo of ash and half a piece of laundry soap.
2. A solution of 50 g of birch tar per ten-liter bucket of water.
3. A bucket of chamomile infusion made from 1 kg of wildflowers.

If there are too many insects, the plant is sprayed with insecticides:

• "Karbofos";
• "Aktellik";
• "Bankol."

For prevention, the tree is treated with Bordeaux mixture (solution concentration 1%). It is enough to spend 2 liters of solution on a young plant, and up to 10 liters on an adult plant bearing fruit. Immediately after this, the surrounding area is sprayed.

Organic fall fertilizers

Organics are environmentally friendly natural fertilizers.
Manure, humus, compost, and bird droppings contain soil bacteria and microorganisms that structure the soil. In addition to saturating the soil with useful substances, organic additives loosen the soil, making it light and breathable. However, there are also disadvantages to organic fertilizers:

• pathogenic flora is preserved in manure and droppings - seeds of perennial weeds, pest larvae, putrefactive bacteria;
• manure gradually acidifies the soil; it is known that berries do not like acidic soils;
• It is problematic to accurately determine the quantitative composition of nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium, so the dosage of fertilizing should be moderate so as not to burn the root system.

Manure

Reference . Manure is waste from domestic animals, fermented (processed) organic residues of plant feed. Contains nitrogen compounds, soil bacteria and microorganisms.

For autumn feeding of the garden, make mullein (slurry):

• fresh manure is poured with water in a ratio of 1:3;
• cover the container with a lid and keep for at least 10 days;
• The solution is stirred every day;
• after fermentation is complete (bubbles appear on the surface), the mixture is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:4 .

Bird droppings are diluted with water in a ratio of 1:12-15 . Fermentation is also prepared from fresh chicken manure:

• droppings are placed in the container;
• pour water in a ratio of 1:1;
• stir and cover with a lid;
• fermentation is kept for about a week;
• dosage of the working solution – 1 liter of fermenter is diluted in 1 bucket of water (10-12 liters).

How to treat cherries against pests in the fall

It is known that cypermethrin is included in the following preparations:

• "Cifox";
• "Mustang";
• "Arriro";
• "Inta-Vir".

These drugs are designed to combat insects, which become very numerous by autumn. They move from nearby abandoned gardens and lay eggs to breed for next year.

When preparing the garden for wintering, the trees must be thoroughly inspected, insect nests must be removed, and healthy branches must be sprayed with insecticides. Carefully cut off the affected branches and burn them so that the eggs do not fall to the ground and remain there until spring.

How to feed cherries in the fall after harvesting

After fruiting, especially abundantly, the cherry is greatly weakened. To help it recover faster, you can use the same mineral complex as for young trees, but the amount of fertilizer must be increased by 1.5 times. Feeding fruit-bearing specimens with a solution of wood ash (1 cup per 10 liters) gives excellent results. Mature trees in the fall, after harvesting, can be fed with balanced complex mineral fertilizers with a low nitrogen content. These include such well-known compounds as nitrophoska and diammofoska.

Balanced fertilizers with a low nitrogen content can also be used in autumn

The nitrogen content in them does not exceed 11%, so such fertilizers do not provoke excessive shoot growth and do not weaken the winter hardiness of trees.

Insulation and shelter for the winter

In winter, young trees are threatened by squally winds, precipitation, and severe frosts. This can damage the crown, slow down the movement of sap and the growth of shoots. Ultimately reduce yields. Rodents love to eat tree bark.

Therefore, young trees should be covered in autumn to prevent branches from breaking. And whitewash the lower part of the trunks.

Experienced gardeners these days wrap plastic mesh around trunks and lower branches. It prevents rodents from damaging the bark and also insulates the plant. If there is shelter, a fence, a picket fence next to the tree, that’s also good. The young plant is tied to a support to help withstand winds. The crown is covered with burlap, old newspapers, wrapped with twine and topped with spruce branches. This is how the trunks of plants under 4 years old are insulated.

For the winter, the base of the trunk is dug in with loose soil, mulch, and covered with spruce branches to a depth of 30-40 cm. The mulch is poured so that it is not too close to the trunk. Otherwise, in the spring and during the thaw, the bark becomes warm and rotting begins.

Hay, bark, straw, humus, and peat are used as mulch. This layer will protect the roots from diseases, pests, frost, and slow down the growth of weeds. Among other things, it is an additional organic fertilizer and reduces the need for frequent loosening.

Inorganic preparations and fertilizers for cherries

To obtain the best results in cherry fruiting, you should combine natural fertilizers and special mineral complexes.

Urea for cherries in spring and autumn

This preparation contains a large amount of nitrogen (up to 45%), so it is actively used in the spring to help plants quickly increase their vegetative mass. When urea and potassium salt are simultaneously added to the soil, cherries immediately receive all the nutrients necessary for growth.

But urea also helps trees successfully fight fungal mold - coccomycosis. To do this, the entire above-ground part of cherry trees is treated with a urea solution before the onset of cold weather.

Superphosphate for fertilizing cherries

Approximately half of this preparation consists of phosphorus and its compounds, which are indispensable for the active development and growth of the root system of plants, as well as cherry seedlings. Phosphorus also improves the taste of ripening fruits and accelerates their ripening.

If cherry trees lack this microelement, then a yellow heel with a purple tint appears on their foliage.

Important!

Superphosphate cannot be added to the soil at the same time as urea, chalk or saltpeter. At least 6-8 days should pass between the addition of these drugs.

Ammonium nitrate for fertilizing cherries

This drug can be applied to the soil instead of urea, since the percentage of nitrogen in them is approximately the same. Therefore, this substance can also be applied to cherry trees during the spring.

Important!

The time for the first feeding of cherries in the spring is the end of March or the beginning of April, until the buds of the trees begin to swell and bloom.

Urea or ammonium nitrate are suitable as effective root dressings at this time.

How to feed cherries in spring:

• preparations must be applied liquid to the tree trunk circle, therefore, before applying to the soil, they are diluted according to the instructions for use;
• A circular groove is made around the cherry tree, into which up to 30 liters of water are added;
• After the moisture has been completely absorbed into the soil, diluted fertilizer can be applied.

Important!

Before the leaves bloom on the cherry trees, it is useless to carry out foliar fertilizing with any fertilizers.

When the buds are blooming on the cherry trees, the following fertilizing should be applied. In this case, pure nitrogen fertilizers can do more harm than good to this stone fruit crop.

Whitewashing trees

Powerful trunks of mature trees are whitened. A layer of whitewash protects not only from rodents, but also from the too bright rays of the winter sun. Sometimes copper sulfate is added to lime. This repels rodents even more. It is more convenient to whitewash after the rainy season, so the layer of lime will remain on the trunk longer.

The trunks of young trees are also whitewashed, partially reaching the lower branches.

Interesting: How to dilute lime for whitewashing trees

Suitable fertilizers

Before fertilizing, it should be taken into account that plums and cherries grow well and bear fruit on alkaline soils; for this reason, lime, ash and mulch must be added to them with manure. After harvesting, the trees must be fed with mineral compounds. During this period, the soil must be saturated with calcium, potassium and phosphorus. For winter digging, it is necessary to add ash to a depth of 8 cm.

Important

!
You need to dig no deeper than 20 cm, otherwise you may damage the roots.

Features of preparation for cold weather by region

When carrying out preparations for winter, it is important to take into account the climatic characteristics of the cherry growing area. In the Moscow region and central Russia, a standard scheme has been developed for this.

Fruit trees growing in Siberia, the Urals, the Leningrad region and the Far East require more serious care and adapted varieties.

• The cherry tree must be insulated. Particular care must be taken to cover young plants, because they tolerate frost less well.
• Pruning in these areas is done immediately after the leaves fall. They are trying to meet the deadline until mid-September. Wounds on branches after pruning should have time to heal. Later, there are low temperatures here, because of which the seedlings may die and the adult tree may be seriously damaged.
• In a cold region, it is important to cover not only the trunk of plants, but also the buds; In bush cherries, bent branches must be completely covered with snow, spruce branches, straw or peat, rags, and non-woven materials.

Features of garden care in autumn

Let's talk separately about eradication treatments. Over the entire growing season, many infections have accumulated on leaves, shoots and soil. It’s not worth leaving such a “treasure” in the winter.

Without health procedures, even applying fertilizers will not produce results. The garden will not have time to wake up in the spring before all the well-overwintered pests and infections will come to life and scatter throughout the garden.

Protective treatments for trees and shrubs

For preventive garden treatments in the fall, gardeners use mineral contact and systemic fungicides and insecticides:

Working solutions are prepared in strict dosages prescribed in the instructions.

If there are no special preparations at hand, any summer resident will always have carbamide (urea) in his supplies.

Attention! A concentrated urea solution (7-8%) is an excellent safe means for eradicating garden treatments.

The working solution for eradicating spraying of garden trees and shrubs is prepared simply:

• Pour 700 g (two half-liter jars filled to the top with granules) of urea into a sprayer;
• add 10 liters of water;
• Stir the solution thoroughly until the granules are completely dissolved.

The telescopic extension rod for the sprayer will help you to completely process the trunk, leaves, bark, shoots, and the tree trunk circle; to reach the very top of the tree.

The procedure is carried out at the very beginning of leaf fall, as soon as the first yellowed leaves appear. The method is suitable for stone fruit and fruit trees:

Spray berry bushes:

• currant;
• gooseberry;
• raspberries (remontant varieties are not processed; the above-ground part is cut off at the root and disposed of).

• accelerates leaf fall;
• ensures rapid decomposition of litter and remaining fruits under trees and bushes;
• destroys fungal and viral infections accumulated in the soil and on leaves.

Autumn loosening of the root zone

A mandatory procedure for caring for an orchard before wintering is digging up tree trunk strips and circles.

They loosen the soil under bushes and trees in order to reduce the number of harmful insects and their larvae. Garden pests (raspberry gall midges, weevils) hide for the winter not only under the bark and in lichens, but also in the surface layer of soil.

In October and November, at the first frost (the soil freezes slightly), surface loosening is carried out. Thus, the larvae and pests end up on the surface and die from frost or are destroyed by wintering birds.

Mulching the tree trunk area

A week after loosening the areas under the berry bushes, the root zones need to be mulched. Be sure to mulch the trunk strips of berry crops with a superficial root system:

In regions with harsh winters, a layer of mulch (at least 10-15 cm) will protect the roots from freezing. For mulch use:

Fruit trees are mulched with old manure when the soil freezes slightly, at which time the root system loses activity. In the spring, when the soil begins to thaw, the roots wake up and groundwater begins to move. A layer of mulch laid in the fall nourishes the roots of fruit trees and shrubs, saturates the soil with organic substances and minerals.

It is important in the fall to remove from trees and dispose of (burn or bury deep) dried, rotten mummified fruits of apples, pears, and plums. This is the source of fruit rot infection.

Autumn pruning

Trimming excess, diseased, and dried branches increases the yield and quality of berries. The cherries become large and fleshy.

Removing overgrowth

If a cherry tree is not cared for for a long time or not at all, shoots form around the mother trunk. It takes nutrients from the main plant and blocks the light. The berries become smaller, the yield is lower.

In the southern regions of the country, where there are rich black soils, by autumn shoots emerge from the ground around each tree. It forms entire thickets, drawing moisture and nutrients from the soil. That's why we have to fight it.

1. At the base of the shoot emerging from the soil, you need to dig a hole and cut off the shoot with a sharp knife.
2. The shoot must be cut off from the root of the main tree without damaging the main root.
3. Fill the cut area with garden varnish and cover the hole with earth.
4. After removing excess shoots, stumps should not be left, because new shoots will soon grow on them.

Features and trimming time

If the cherry variety is prone to neglect and excessive dense growth, experienced gardeners carry out formative pruning. In young plants, cut off the top of the crown. When forming the crown, 7-12 skeletal branches are left.

In the fall, it is recommended to remove weak, dry, diseased crowns that grow inward and create shadows from mature trees. Annual, healthy shoots are not shortened. Young, strong branches are left 1.5-2 meters long.

Sanitary pruning is carried out after leaf fall. At this time, diseased and dry branches are removed. After this, debris is removed under the tree, leaves and weeds are removed so that mold spores and insect eggs do not remain in the soil. Spraying the soil and branches will be very helpful.

Autumn care

In autumn, fruit trees are prepared for winter frosts by supplying them with complex fertilizers. However, nitrogen should not be present in fertilizers, since this microelement enhances greening.

Autumn work begins immediately after the leaves fall and branches are pruned. The tree trunk circle is carefully protected from debris, and the soil is dug up deeply. After digging, fertilizer is applied.

Note! In the fall, digging is done with a pitchfork rather than a shovel. Dug up soil freezes less than compacted soil.

In autumn, it is best to apply mixed organic-chemical fertilizers:

• kuryak solution;
• compost;
• humus;
• sawdust;
• lime;
• ash;
• chalk.

Chalk is added if the tree is in dire need of iron.

Cherries are lovers of alkaline soil, so gardeners periodically lim the soil around the trunk.

Autumn preparation is also necessary for young two-year-old trees. Seedlings are fed with superphosphate (up to 60 g per square meter of trunk furrow) and an aqueous mixture of potassium sulfate (25 g of agrochemical dissolved in a bucket). Organic fertilizers (compost or humus) are applied every three years: 4-5 kg ​​of mass is consumed per square meter of tree-trunk furrow.

Fallen leaves must be burned: they may harbor pests.

Trees from four to seven years old must be sprayed with a urea solution after the first frost. This will provide them with an easy winter. For the mixture, take 25 g of urea per bucket. For root feeding, use 310 g of superphosphate (if you use double superphosphate, the volume is halved). In addition to superphosphate, cherries are fed with an ash solution (it is enough to dilute one glass of wood ash in a bucket). Once every three years, cherries need humus or compost (up to 40 kg of organic matter is placed in the trunk circle).

Old trees (after 7 years) are also sprayed with urea solution after frost. Root feeding is carried out by adding a superphosphate solution in a volume of 0.5 kg per tree. Cherries also need potassium complexes (potassium sulfate or potassium chloride). Humus/compost is added once every three years in a volume of 50 kg per tree.

Autumn care allows trees to overwinter without problems and quickly awaken in the spring. Fertilizing also protects cherries from fungal diseases and attacks by insect pests. Experienced gardeners whiten trunks in the fall to prevent pests from settling under the bark for the winter.

Grateful Tree

The tree responds to careful care with great gratitude. A rich harvest - up to 20 kg per tree, gardeners harvest every summer. Housewives tirelessly prepare for the winter. They prepare traditional summer dishes, about which they rightly say: “You will lick your fingers!”

Compotes for the winter, dumplings, cakes and pies with cherries, jam with pits. Canned pitted cherries in their juice are great for pies and jelly in winter. It would take a long time to list the delicious dishes made from this healthy berry, rich in vitamin C. This berry decorates the table of a good housewife all year round. A good harvest will be ensured by timely care of the tree.

Ladybugs to protect gardens from pests

By the way, about ladybugs . In the very first summer on my site, I practically reduced the population of ladybugs to zero, mistaking their larvae for the larvae of the Colorado potato beetle (they are indeed very similar). And the aphids were not long in coming. All the tops of the young plums were twisted... Even Fitoverm couldn’t help: aphids have so many generations in one season, if you “take” each one with Fitoverm, you’ll get poisoned faster... Then I didn’t connect the presence or absence of aphids with ladybugs . And last year, having prepared for active protection, I was surprised to find that there were practically no aphids on the site. Naturally, she began to carefully examine the branches of the plum tree and gasped. Inside the crown, ladybugs swarmed like bees.

Blooming plum in the garden

After delving into the literature, I found out: the point, it turns out, is that aphids are the main seasonal food of ladybugs .